November 15, 1999 (San Diego, Calif) — Before you think about how cozy a nice evening fire would be and light that first fire, you need to have your fireplace and chimney inspected by a qualified fireplace specialist. The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) is urging homebuyers and homeowners to have fireplaces and chimneys inspected by a qualified inspection specialist.

Both CREIA and the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommend a yearly, professional inspection to include the checking of chimney, flues and vents for leakage and blockage by creosote and debris. Leakage through cracks or holes could cause black stains in the outside of the chimney and flue. These stains mean that pollutants are leaking into the house. Most people are not aware that a fireplace inadequately maintained and vented can produce more carbon monoxide infiltration into the home's interior than several furnaces and water heater flue vents combined.

Several problems may occur at the chimney and firebox that the average homeowner is unaware, such as corroded or inoperable metal smoke damper, a damaged metal ash dump cover, eroded mortar joints at the rear and side interior hearth fire brick walls and base, inadequate hearth extension, improper clearance from combustible materials at the hearth opening or at the chimney within the attic space, a cracked flue liner or no flue liner at all especially at older chimneys, a damaged cement cap at the chimney top which can allow moisture intrusion into the chimney interior chase ultimately deteriorating the entire system. Also, there is the possibility that the ash dump pit is overfilled, the exterior clean-out cast iron cover is missing or below exterior grade or under the house within the foundation crawl space area (which is no longer an approved location as the spillage of hot ashes under a home presents a distinct fire hazard). The chimney top should be equipped with a weather capped spark arrestor to help prevent seasonal moisture intrusion into the chimney interior and the escape of hot embers when operating the fireplace. This is very important when the home has a wood shingle or shake roof covering.

Consider the following advice when looking to hire a fireplace specialist: check to see if the company or individual you call is a member of a state chimney guild or association; check with the local Better Business Bureau to see if there is a record of any complaints; and most important, do not allow the fireplace/chimney inspector perform corrective work for any defects that are reported (this is a conflict of interest). Get a written report from the inspection specialist, then hire and then hire a state licensed masonry contractor to do the actual repair work.

APRIL 2, 2001 (SAN DIEGO, CALIF) - A common question posed by potential homebuyers is, "Is there asbestos in this house?". Asbestos is a known environmental hazard, which has been discontinued in residential construction since 1978. However, there are still thousands of older homes that contain this potentially lethal material. Asbestos was used for generations in residential construction, primarily as an insulation material. The most common areas for this material to be present are at heating ducts and equipment, and, in some instances, in acoustic ceiling material (also know as "cottage cheese" ceilings). In the 1960's and 1970's, numerous studies linked asbestos to various forms of cancer, and, as a result, the federal and state governments banned its use for any residential building constructed after 1978. As a hazardous substance, the material is quite costly to remove and dispose of. Such costs may impact the purchase decision. Therefore, consumer concern is quite valid. The question of who will test for asbestos is more complex. In residential real estate transactions, home sellers are bound by law to disclose the presence of such materials, if known. Unfortunately, many home sellers are unaware. It is also an unfortunate common misconception that a professional Home Inspector will test for the presence of asbestos. This is simply not the case. Unless the Home Inspector is individually certified by the California Division of Occupational Health (Cal/OSHA), they, cannot, by law, test or even offer conclusive opinions, for these materials. While some Home Inspectors are properly certified, most are not. Additionally, the testing of asbestos, or any environmental hazard, is not part of the Standards of Practice of the California Real Estate Inspection Association, the leading professional group of home inspectors in the state. Therefore, consumers who are purchasing properties constructed prior to 1978 are encouraged to seek the advice and services of a properly trained asbestos inspector.

Many Home Inspectors will inform consumers of the approximate age of the property, which may help determine if the home was constructed before 1978. Some inspectors may even explain some of the "clues" when identifying potential asbestos-containing material. Generally speaking, thin insulation material around the heating plenum and ducts that is a white or light gray, and which has a "chalky" type texture, has a higher probability to contain asbestos. However, only proper laboratory testing can confirm this suspicion. For more information on this important subject, homeowners and potential buyers are encouraged to contact Cal/OSHA at (916) 574-2993 or visit online at www.dir.ca.gov/DOSH.

March 7, 2002 (Palm Springs, Calif) The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) wants homebuyers and home sellers to be aware of potential health hazards from the accumulation of dust and filth in a home’s ductwork. While not the case with all forced air systems, in many homes, occupants are unknowingly breathing air that has been circulated over layers of visible filth.

Although the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) does not address duct cleaning, air ducts provide a common harbor and distribution mechanism for biological air contaminants. In many older homes, forced air heaters may have been operated for years with dirty filters or with no filters at all. The accumulated dust on the inner duct surfaces is often oily or moist and may contain mites or various species of molds or fungus. In newer homes, where air-tight construction methods are employed for enhanced energy conservation, the growth of mold spores has become recognized as a significant indoor air quality hazard.

The EPA reports that molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance when moisture is present. Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce, just as plants produce seeds. Mold spores waft through the indoor and outdoor air continually. When mold spores land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, foods, even dynamite. When excessive moisture or water accumulates indoors, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.

Molds can trigger asthma episodes in individuals with an allergic reaction to mold. If mold is a problem in your home, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture. Recommendation by your professional inspector to clean you air ducts should be heeded to help provide a safe and healthy home.

August 1, 2001 (Palm Springs, Calif) - The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) cautions homebuyers and home sellers to be aware of several common clothes dryer problems that may cause a safety issue for your home, including fire hazard.

Terminating a dryer exhaust beneath a home is a common construction defect and is forbidden by the Uniform Mechanical Code. There are two reasons for this prohibition: continuous lint build-up in the subfloor area poses a fire hazard, and moisture condensation beneath the structure that can cause damage to the wood framing.

To vent your dryer properly, the use of four-inch diameter metal ducting is advised. The duct fittings should be secured with tape, not screws, because lint built-up on the screw ends can restrict the free flow of air. Also, a dryer vent hood should be installed at the exterior of the building to prevent back drafting.

Another annoying problem are exhaust vents that cause water stains and the built up of lint on the filter screen at the vent opening at the roof. There is a simple solution. The next time you climb the roof to clean the filter screen, just tear it off and throw it away. The Uniform Mechanical Code specifically prohibits the use of screens on clothes dryer exhaust vents. Screens on dryer vents inevitably become clogged with lint. This congestion reduces efficiency of the dryer and can cause over-heating. Additionally, a congested vent can cause water condensation within the duct, and this, most likely, is responsible for the water stains.

Removing the screen may remedy these adverse effects. And while you're at it, check the duct connections to make sure there are no sheet metal screws. These are also prohibited, because lint built-up on the ends of screws can restrict airflow.

Also, make sure to check the overall length of the air duct. The maximum allowed length is 14 feet. Some floor plans do not enable compliance with this requirement, but keeping the duct as short as possible minimizes airflow resistance.

JANUARY 2, 2001 (SAN DIEGO, CALIF) - The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) wants homeowners and homebuyers to be aware of an important possible health and safety issue relating to their furnace.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is warning California homeowners with gas-fired horizontal forced-air furnaces in their homes that they may have a dangerous and defective product under their roof. There have been over 30 reports of fires and damages to homes in California from defective furnaces. The defective furnace was sold under several names, the most common being Consolidated Industries and The Premier Furnace Company, among others.

Many of these dangerous furnaces are still in use (these furnaces were installed exclusively in California). These furnaces are typically installed either in attics or in crawl spaces. Such difficult locations may require a professional inspector to perform evaluation on these potentially deadly products.

Consumers need to be aware that the manufacturer of these furnaces is currently in bankruptcy and repairs parts are unavailable. Replacement will be necessary. Consumers are encouraged to contact their local professional inspector to identify and evaluate this product. "This might also be a good time to have a full house inspection so that you are aware of the status of your home's systems, structures and components," adds Jack Gironda, President of the California Real Estate Inspection Association.

In addition to full home inspection by a professional real estate inspector, potential home buyers are further cautioned to make sure that any home they are considering purchasing which has a gas-fired horizontal forced-air furnace manufactured between 1983 -1994, be inspected by a licensed and qualified HVAC contractor prior to close of escrow.

A home inspection performed by a qualified professional will include examination of the accessible areas of the foundation, frame and structural support systems, roofing materials, plumbing and electrical systems, and operation of the property's major appliances, such as heating and air conditioning systems, water heaters, and kitchen appliances, among others. While home inspectors do not profess to know every product recalled by the CPSC, they are trained to detect deficiencies in performance and operation of a home's major systems, to look for telltale signs of irregular wear and use, and are proficient in the safety aspects of major household appliances.

A consumer wishing specific information on CPSC recalls, or other information, can write to the CPSC (online at www.cpsc.gov or write to US Consumer Product Safety Commission, Washington, DC 20207-0001 or toll-free at 800-638-2772).

Small, insignificant items such as poor wiring, fire stops, and window sizing that really don't seem like a big issue at first. But in the real world fires do occur and "small, insignificant items" simply can not be ignored. The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) recently furnished some pertinent information. Between the years of 1989 and 1993 the NFPA conducted an exhaustive, highly detailed survey of home structure fires, and the following results speak for themselves. During the four years included in the survey period a total of 466,300 home fires in the U.S. were reported which resulted in 3,860 civilian deaths, 20,810 civilian injuries and $4,378,200,000.00 in property damage.

The NFPA broke down the causes of these fires into various general categories. Misc. equipment caused 44,000 fires, 240 deaths and 1,700 injuries. Heating equipment caused 85,400 fires, 540 deaths and 2,180 injuries. Electrical systems caused 39,600 fires, 370 deaths and 1,490 injuries. Cooking equipment caused 101,200 fires, 320 deaths and 5,060 injuries. Incendiary or suspicious caused 57,900 fires, 680 deaths and 2,310 injuries. Open flame (such as fireplaces) caused 22,200 fires, 130 deaths and 770 injuries. Appliances, tools & air conditioning caused 31,200 fires, 110 deaths and 1,080 injuries.

Children playing caused 22,400 fires, 390 deaths and 2,530 injuries. Exposure to another fire caused 17,500 fires, 40 deaths and 180 injuries. Other heat sources caused 10,000 fires, 130 deaths and 770 injuries. Natural causes were attributed to 8,700 fires, 20 deaths and 160 injuries. By eliminating those fires caused by items which were not an actual integral part of the home, we get an idea of just how dangerous some homes can really be. The fires attributed solely to heating, cooking and other equipment, electrical systems and appliances, and open flames as their cause accounted for a total of 323,600 fires, 1,700 deaths, 12,280 injuries and $2,397,900,000.00 in property damage. Granted, these are U.S. totals which represent a four year period of time, but they or their respective causes can be classed as either "small" or "insignificant".

September 2002 (Palm Springs, Calif) — The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) cautions homebuyers and home sellers to make sure they follow proper safety requirements in the ownership, maintenance and operation of automatic garage doors.

Automatic reverse for garage door openers is a vital life saving function, routinely checked in the course of a professional home inspection. A professional, qualified home inspector will test the garage opener and include appropriate findings in the inspection report. Should an opener fail to reverse, it is the responsibility of the inspector to identify the problem and to advise further evaluation and repair by an experienced and qualified technician.

When a door opener's safety reverse function fails to operate, the problem may be improper adjustment, or it may be something more serious and costly. With some openers, auto-reverse mechanisms may need replacement, not merely readjustment. With older door openers, many were never designed with automatic safety reverse. With these outdated fixtures, replacement of the entire unit is the safest recommendation.

Your garage door should be balanced so that it will stay in place when stopped in any partially opened position. Otherwise, the door could unexpectedly crash to the floor causing injury. It is recommended that garage door operation be checked every 30 days to make sure it is properly functioning, that the fittings are secure and the door in on track. If any problem is discovered, disconnect the automatic opener as specified in the owner’s manual until repair is complete.

Remember to have the wall switch in the garage installed as high as possible from the reach of small children. Likewise, keep the remote control from a child’s access.

With any technical defect, whether the problem involves a garage door opener or components of the plumbing, heating, electrical, or other building systems, repairs should only be made to an expert. Qualified experts are the only safe and reliable avenues to conscientious evaluation and repair of your home. The primary scope and purpose of a professional, quality home inspection is to provide diagnosis and to recommend subsequent evaluation and repairs by such appropriate specialists.

January 2, 2002 (Palm Springs, Calif) — The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) cautions homebuyers and home sellers that a professional home inspection is needed to ensure that forced air heaters are properly sealed to their platform.

Improperly or weaken furnace seals are a common occurrence, especially in older homes that have not been inspected in many years. Review of your furnace is recommended by a professional home inspector as a cautionary measure to protect the inhabitants of the home from the possible mixing of combustion gases, such as carbon monoxide, with the circulating air in your home.

One way this fatal mixture can occur is through small gaps at the base of the furnace. The lower portion of your furnace is known as the return air plenum. This is where the air from your home is drawn into the furnace to be reheated and then blown back into the rooms of your home. The blower unit performs this function by creating a vacuum. If the base of the furnace is not sealed to the platform, this vacuum can pull exhaust gases from the furnace into the air stream. These exhaust fumes can then be circulated to every heat register in the house, to the obvious detriment of you and your family.

If your home inspector advises repair, immediate attention to this concern is recommend. The repair is a fairly simple and affordable procedure. All that is needed is to caulk the perimeter of the heater base to the wood platform. When completed, you can call the Gas Company for a final inspection. Make sure your retain the services of a qualified inspector who is trained and experienced in home inspection and is a member of a professional association such as CREIA.

This real estate bulletin has been brought to you by the California Real Estate Inspection Association. Since 1976, CREIA, a non-profit voluntary membership organization has been providing education, training, and support services to the real estate inspection industry and to the public. Inspectors must adhere to CREIA's Code of Ethics and follow the Standards of Practice developed by the association. These Standards of Practice have been recognized by the State of California, and are considered the source for Home Inspector Standard of Care by the real estate and legal communities.

June 2003 (Palm Springs, Calif) — The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) reports that moisture intrusion damage and plumbing leaks are the largest repair expense most homeowners face today. Deferring maintenance for any moisture problem is not wise. Plumbing and drainage problems can escalate to health issues as molds can grow on virtually any substance when moisture is present.

Make sure your home’s roof, grade-level, and underground drainage systems are designed to redirect water flow away from the perimeter foundation. Properly installed drainage systems help prevent flooding, soils erosion, excessive moisture conditions, foundation settlement, and moisture infiltration into below grade rooms and storage areas. Typically, these drainage systems are referred to as a “French drain.” A French drain consists of trenches that are lined with drainage cloth, filled with rock, and contain perforated piping with the holes at the four and eight o’clock position. Ground water favors French drains because they provide an easier flow path than the natural grade of the property. Simply stated, a French drain creates a more permeable route for flow and carries the water to a safe disposal point.

The migration of moisture against either a home’s perimeter concrete foundation stem wall or beneath a concrete slab type foundation can be costly for homeowners because of the potential damage possible to a home’s support systems, as well as to personal contents and mechanical systems, along with the possible encouragement of mold and pest infestation.

To ensure that a home’s drainage system is adequate in design and effective during wet weather, make sure it is evaluated by a qualified and experienced inspector. If a problem is discovered by a professional home inspector, a geotechnical expert may be further recommended to perform a site evaluation and provide specifications and a cost analysis for the proper drainage system.

If any flooding has recently occurred, the foundations, subfloor framing, and other building components should be carefully examined for possible moisture-related damage. Your inspector has a professional obligation to inspect the crawlspace beneath the dwelling, unless that portion of the home is inaccessible. In that case, lack of access should be specifically noted in the inspection report, with a recommendation for further evaluation as soon as access can be provided. The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) includes the inspection of the crawlspace as part of their Standards of Practice for all member inspectors.

Manufacturers of tank-type gas water heaters recently introduced a safety feature to prevent dangerous flashback fires.

The next hot water heater you buy will be a bit different that the one you have now, both in safety and – as with all “improvements” — cost. That’s because tank-type gas water heaters manufactured after July 1st are being equipped with a safety device designed to prevent flashbacks fires. Models incorporating the new design feature are commonly referred to as Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant (FVIR) water heaters. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, a flashback fire occurs when vapors from a flammable liquid such as gasoline come in contact with an appliance’s burner or pilot light and the vapors ignite. The commission estimates that there are 800 residential flashback fires a year in the United States, resulting in five deaths and 130 injuries. The technology prevents such fires by trapping and burning dangerous gas vapors inside the heater while preventing ignition of the vapors in the room. How does an FVIR water heater work? The Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association says the heaters are designed to keep burning vapors inside the combustion chamber until they burn out. The heaters also are designed to shut down automatically if they become clogged with dust and lint. A flame arrestor, typically made of stainless steel, at the base of the heater prevents flammable vapors from igniting outside the heater’s internal combustion chamber. The chamber is sealed so that the arrestor is the only way for combustive air to enter the unit. Should flammable vapors get through, they burn off harmlessly on the arrestor’s surface. If the heater becomes clogged with lint, dust or oil, a combustion temperature sensor will shut down the unit. The new voluntary heater-technology standard was approved in two parts, the safety commission said. The first requirement, for flammable vapors ignition resistance was approved in February 2000. The second requirement, for the heater to resist lint, dust and oil accumulation was approved in November. The final standard, incorporating both parts, became effective July 1st. An industry research and development group came up with the technology to meet the requirements.

Power-vented 30, 40 and 50 gallon models will follow suit by July 1, 2004, the manufactures’ association said, and remaining models—those with larger volumes and water heaters for manufactured homes—will do so by July1, 2005. Depending on the model, the new technology will increase the price of gas-fired water heaters by about $75. For example, A.O. Smith, a major manufacturer of tank hot water heaters, has already introduced the technology, and it will raise the price of its 40-gallon model from about $410 to $485. Prices may differ among manufacturers and in different areas of the country, according to plumbers interviewed. The water-heater standard follows another voluntary industry standard that calls for child-resistant packaging for gasoline cans, according to the safety commission. FVIR water heaters are no substitute for common sense. Never store flammable liquids or other combustible materials near any gas-fired appliance. Cleaning solvents, aerosols, paint thinner and vapor from gasoline can ignite, if they come in contact with an open flame from a candle, match or pilot light. You are not required to replace your existing gas-fired water heater with an FVIR model. But when you do need to replace it, only FVIR models will be available. Unlike with low-flow toilets, you will not be able to go to Canada to get a non-FVIR water heater. Implementation of the FVIR heaters in Canada will lag only six months behind ours. Existing models cannot be converted to FVIR.

More information is available at the appliance manufacturers’ web site; www.gamanet.org, (Consumer Info.) or the Consumer Product Safety Commission at 1-800-638-2772 or www.cpsc.gov Taken from the Realty Times, Sept. 25, 2003.

May 1, 2000 (San Diego, Calif) — The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) advises homeowners and potential homebuyers to make sure their homes have proper drainage.

It’s an old industry adage that warns: "A lot of water in short period of time can cause major damage and a little water over a long period of time can cause major damage." CREIA warns that amateur solutions to complex drainage problems often result in poor guesswork with no assurance that the money and effort invested will produce desired results. Causes and cures for excessive ground water conditions can be perplexing, even challenging the most knowledgeable of drainage professionals. Failure to properly diagnose and address such conditions can have significant long-term effects on the integrity of a home, including possible jeopardy to the foundation itself.

A nonprofessional’s recommendation, such as boring a drain hole in a foundation wall, may appear to resolve the problem but is actually little more than an uneducated guess. The problem with this approach is its reliance on the following poor assumptions that by simply draining a bore hole in the foundation: 1) all ground water in the sub-area will flow to that opening and that there are no other low areas where standing water could remain beneath the building; 2) the water flow beneath the building has not caused soil erosion at the piers and foundations (ongoing erosion could lead to eventual undermining of the structure) — it is important to prevent further water intrusion and not merely to evacuate the surface water; and 3) there has been no moisture condensation on the wood framing. Condensation is a common cause of fungus and dry rot and can also lead to rust damage of structural hardware. If water damage is occurring, increased ventilation could be essential, and the addition of a plastic ground membrane may be an important consideration.

The California Real Estate Inspection Association recommends that you have your home’s foundation and drainage issues looked at by a qualified home inspection professional. After a careful professional inspection, your home inspector may recommend further evaluation by a qualified drainage specialist, such as a licensed geotechnical engineer to determine the source of water entry. A drainage system should then be installed to prevent further intrusion of ground water. Improvements could include installing a french drain near the building, adding gutters to the roof, regarding the ground surfaces around or below the building, installing a water pump beneath the structure, and possibly more. Only a drainage specialist is qualified to determine which methods of correction are appropriate.

February 1, 2002 (Palm Springs, Calif) The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) reports that there are two common techniques of evaluating roof serviceability 1) inspection and evaluation of the overall physical condition of the materials, such as the shingles or tiles; or 2) simply answering the basic question "Does it leak?"

CREIA wants homebuyers and home sellers to be aware that the preferred method employed by qualified home inspectors and by professional roofing contractors is the first technique of evaluating the physical condition of the roofing materials. If the roofing is found to be damaged or decomposed, replacement is routinely recommended, regardless of whether there is evidence of leakage.

The alternate point of view, the "does-it-leak" approach, is a faulty form of wishful thinking. It assumes that because a roof that has not leaked in the past, it is not likely to do so in the future. This flawed reasoning is often practiced in the desperate hope of avoiding the inevitable cost of replacing a roof.

Neither the home seller nor the homebuyer should ignore the warning signs of a failing roof. To do so could cause exposed walls, ceilings, and furniture to needless damage in the future. Deferred maintenance is not a recommended course of action for something that could cause so much collateral damage to a home.

If a qualified home inspectors and a professional roofing contractor recommend replacing worn out shingles or tile, these recommendation should serve as a forewarning of impending roof failure. With such an important component of one’s house at stake, the conventional wisdom of proactive and preventative care for the roof is the wise course of action.

September 5, 2000 (San Diego, Calif) - The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) cautions homebuyers and home sellers to make sure they know what's up with the roof overhead.

There are two common techniques for evaluating roof serviceability. One approach considers the overall physical condition of the material itself, while the other simply seeks to answer to the question: "Does it leak?"

The first of these methods, the one employed by a professional home inspector, is also the standard criterion employed by professional roofing contractors. If the roofing is found to be damaged or deteriorated, replacement is routinely recommended, regardless of whether there is evidence of leakage.

The alternative "does-it-leak?" method is not the best approach. It assumes that a roof that hasn't leaked in the past, so it's not likely to do so in the future. This flawed reasoning is often practiced in the desperate hope of avoiding the inevitable cost of replacing a roof.

It is not wise to allow an old weathered roof remain in place until water damage to the interior of the home is manifested. Home sellers and homebuyers should not ignore the warning signs of a failing roof. To do so may cause exposed walls, ceilings and furniture needless damage. Deferred maintenance is not a wise course of action.

In some cases a professional home inspector may report on the presence of worn out roofing materials. This may forewarn possible impending roof failure. It is recommend that you have the roof evaluated by a licensed roofing contractor for a conclusive determination of the matter.

Sometimes an inspector will report that roof shingles are curling . Curling can result from substandard manufacture of the shingles, but the more common cause is inadequate ventilation of the attic. With insufficient venting, an attic can become very hot during summer months, causing asphalt shingles to become dry and brittle after several years of exposure.

With prematurely aged shingles, your first step is to inspect the attic vents, typically found at the gables, the eaves or on the roof itself. To ensure that they are clear of obstruction, look for visible light in the attic. Eave vents often become blocked with insulation, and low clearance within the attic can restrict your ability to clear them.

If additional vents are needed, they are not difficult to install. An effective way to meet and exceed current ventilation requirements is to install turbine vents near the roof ridge. For further details and specific evaluation of your roof situation, contact a licensed roofing contractor.

MARCH 1, 2001 (SAN DIEGO, CALIF) - The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) cautions all homeowners and potential homebuyers to take pool fencing seriously. According to recent studies, more than half of all pool drownings that occur in the U.S. involve children under the age of five. Attention to pool fence and other safety issues is a vital imperative for everyone owning or living near a pool or back yard spa.

Requirements for pool fencing are not as rigidly set as most other standards in the Uniform Building Code because they are contained in the appendix portion of the code, rather than the main chapters. Municipalities that adopt the code into law have the option to include the fence requirements in the appendix or to write specific standards of their own. It's wise to consult your professional home inspector or local building department with regards to pool or spa safety.

In jurisdictions where standard fence requirements are in force, there are ten basic rules to keep in mind when fencing an area around a pool or spa:

1. Fencing should totally surround the pool area.

2. Fencing should be at least four feet, but preferably six feet, in height.

3. The bottom edges of fencing should be within four inches of pavement or within 2 inches of unpaved ground.

4. To prevent children from squeezing between vertical components of a fence, the spacing should not exceed 4 inches.

5. Fencing should provide no footholds or handholds that would facilitate climbing.

6. Diamond-shaped chain-link fence openings should be no larger than 1.75 inches, or have inserts to prevent climbing.

7. Pedestrian gates should be self-closing, self-latching, and latch mechanisms should be out of reach of small children.

8. Pedestrian gates should swing in a direction away from the pool (so small children do not push them open).

9. Gates for non-pedestrian use should remain locked when not is use.

10. When the exit doors from adjacent buildings enter directly into the pool area; each such door should be equipped with a self-closing device and an audible alarm.

Pools and spas can be very enticing to small children, sometimes with tragic results. By following these basic standards and consulting your local building department for additional requirements, your pool area should be reasonably protected from child access.

In addition to these guidelines, an inspection by a professional home inspector may determine if the pool or spa is equipped with an anti-vortex drain cover. This inexpensive, yet important device, helps prevent children or small adults from being trapped by the suction of the pool drain. Other areas inspectors review may include diving boards and/or slides, which may be "fun", but can produce serious injuries. Hand rails, steps, gripable coping, GFCI protected lighting and general foot traffic issues are also important safety aspects of a pool and/or spa that a professionally trained home inspector will review.

July 2002 (Palm Springs, Calif) — The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) wants homebuyers and home sellers to know that professional inspectors are concerned about your home and may often recommend seismic safety upgrades in their reports.

Usually, recommended seismic upgrades by a professional home inspector are offered as suggested improvements, not mandatory requirements (with the exception of strapping of water heaters, there is no state law requiring a seller to bring an older home into compliance with current earthquake resistance requirements). However, seismic improvements are prudent and, if done properly, can significantly limit structural damage in the event of a severe earthquake.

Many property owners have chosen to reinforce their foundation systems against earthquake damage, especially since major quakes have occurred in California in the past decade and seismic upgrades were found to be very effective in homes which had been reinforced prior to those events. In most cases, effective seismic upgrading consists of following basics:

· Installation of additional anchor bolts to provide adequate attachment of the wood sills to the concrete foundation. This is only necessary when the existing bolts do not meet current building standards.

· Addition of plywood sheets, known as shear panels, nailed to the "cripple walls" to prevent collapse of those walls when lateral seismic forces are exerted against the building. Cripple walls are the short framed walls that extend from the top of the foundation to the base of the floor structure. · Placement of hold-down brackets to secure "cripple walls" to the anchor bolts. This ensures that the wall studs will not separate from the wood sills when a quake occurs.

· Reinforcement of post and beam connections with plywood gussets or T-straps to ensure against separation or displacement.

In many homes, the floor joists are installed directly on the sill plates, rather than on "cripple walls." In such cases, the second and third recommendations above do not apply. Instead, tie-down brackets can be added to ensure secure attachment of the floor structure to the wood sills.

The average cost for these improvements is usually about $1,500 to 3,000 for a typical 3 bedroom home, but prices can vary greatly, depending upon the size, age and location of the building, as well as the type of construction. To ensure optimum reinforcement, it is recommended that the specifications for upgrading any building be determined by a licensed structural engineer.

November 1, 2001 (Palm Springs, Calif) - Over the past 24 months a new environmental concern - toxic molds - has come to the forefront of the public's attention. While the existence of toxic molds in the environment has been documented for centuries, due to modern construction practices, poor quality control and a lack of proper maintenance, they are now linked to illnesses and other medical disorders that are affecting the lives of families across the continent. Most of the attention regarding toxic molds has been focused on the compromised health and shattered lives of the home's occupants along with the inevitable litigation that follows. What has been missing throughout all this firestorm of media activity is discussion regarding the conditions contributing to toxic mold manifestation.

There are many factors leading to fungal development within a structure, according to George Harper, President of the California Real Estate Inspection Association, a professional association with over 800 real estate inspectors. "The primary cause is water intrusion," explains Harper "a fungal contamination requires several conditions in order to survive and grow. There must be a moisture source, limited ventilation and a food source that is commonly any cellulose substrate on which the fungal contamination can grow on and become a colony. The typical gestation period for a mold colony is only 12 to 48 hours from the onset of spore exposure to the cellulose substrate."

When dealing with a possible toxic mold contamination inside a structure, the first course of action is to locate the moisture source and remove it. There are several common areas of moisture intrusion to consider, such as

Roof leaks
Plumbing leaks
Poorly maintained heating and cooling systems
Window and door leaks
Improperly adjusted landscape sprinklers
as well as many other possible sources

Homes should be thoroughly reviewed, including an inspection of the roofing materials and penetrations, such as heating and plumbing vents. Other common leakage areas, such as chimney and/or skylight flashings should also be examined. Exterior wall penetrations, such as windows and door openings, electrical fixtures and receptacle boxes, should be examined for signs of water intrusion as well. Additionally, the plumbing system, including pipes in crawl spaces and attics should be thoroughly reviewed for signs of leakage. All heating and cooling equipment should be operated and inspected for signs of moisture intrusion, and or creation. Harper explained that residential air conditioning systems can produce two to three quarts of water per day when operated for extended periods of time. "If the air conditioning condensation line is not properly routed, you could put a bathtub full of water into the walls before you noticed it," explained Harper.

Due to the complexities surrounding moisture intrusion sources, CREIA recommends consumers not attempt these investigations on their own, but rather hire a professional home inspector that is trained and equipped to perform such work. A qualified CREIA inspector is trained to identify conditions leading to and causing moisture intrusion. CREIA qualified inspectors are equipped to access roofing materials, attics, and crawl spaces. Although specific identification of fungal contamination is beyond the scope of a typical home inspection, some CREIA inspector members have received additional education and training in this discipline and offer this and other ancillary environmental services in addition to their usual inspection services.

July 2003 (Palm Springs, Calif) — The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) cautions home owners and home buyers about the potential hazard that may occur through the backflow of water between indoor and outdoor faucets.

The faucets in a home’s kitchen, bathrooms, laundry areas and exterior hose bibbs provide what is know as “potable water”. Potable water is defined as “fit for human consumption.” Non drinking irrigation water is usually termed “non-potable”. Both get their water from the same supply line — that is, the local water company’s water meter located on your lot. This means all water outlets at every location on your property (including both inside and outside) get their water from the same source. This results in a “cross-connection” between your garden hose and your faucets providing drinking water. A cross connection is not a good thing unless there is an anti-siphon or “back-flow” prevention device installed between the potable and irrigation water supply system.

A dangerous cross-connection can occur under the following scenario: Husband is outside fertilizing the lawn with weed-killer fertilizer pellets. Immediately after applying the chemicals he places the hose in a trench or turns on the sprinkler system. While this is occurring Wife is taking a shower and at that moment one of the children is getting a drink of water from the kitchen faucet. The child later becomes sick and a hospital visit reveals weed poison in the child’s blood. This scenario is possible because a change in water pressure can create a siphon effect where the irrigation water containing poisonous chemicals that has leached through the lawn and entered broken or low laying sprinkler heads or coiled hose openings are drawn into the home’s potable water supply.

The California Plumbing Code’s (Chapter 6: Water Supply and Distribution) deals with this hazard by requiring exterior faucets (hose bibbs) and all landscaping water systems to be equipped with properly installed “back-flow” prevention devices. These devices prevent garden water from backing up into your home’s potable water system. However, if your home is an older property, you may not be protected from this potential danger.

A professional inspector can help you determine if your home is protected from cross contamination. All CREIA inspectors are familiar with these devices and they are addressed during their inspections under CREIA’s extensive Standards of Practice.